Rhiannon D’Averc brings you all the details on another lockdown LFW – with a brief review of every on-schedule show! Tune in next issue for breakdowns of Fashion Scout and other off-schedule shows!
FRIDAY
LONDON FASHION WEEK OFFICIAL OPENING WITH KAI-ISAIA JAMAL
We love the use of a trans person of colour to open the whole proceedings – what a powerful statement of acceptance! That’s said, it’s tough to wrangle spoken word poetry into something that feels fitting for Fashion Week, and we’ve not really seen an example yet that fully works despite continued reliance on this format during virtual shows.
LINUS LEONARDSSON IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY
The first collection of the season and the first genderless one too. An unfortunate focus on trippy visuals and audio rather than on visual quality, showing off the actual clothes, and having a wider range of looks. Designers – please show us your clothes, or why we are here…?
SABIRAH BY DEBORAH LATOUCHE IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY
The effect is striking. Nevertheless, we once again struggle to make out the details on black clothes, on a black background, shot at a low quality, with a single spotlight only hitting part of the model’s body. Which is a shame, because what we can see of the clothes looks stunning.
PARNELL MOONEY IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY
This one’s actually quite interesting. A printer shoots out images of the models against a bright yellow backdrop. Again, could have done with zooming in on some of the looks, but they have a subversive and anarchistic feel which we appreciate very much.
DISCOVERYLAB HAIR BY TONI&GUY
Don’t be fooled by the title – this video clip actually gives a lot of insight into the designers and their inspiration, not just the hair. It feels like half video is just logos, though.
BETHANY WILLIAMS CAPSULE COAT COLLECTION, EXCLUSIVELY AT SELFRIDGES
If you’re keeping count, this is gender neutral collection number two. It’s also organic and recycled. The video features quotes from Williams over footage of the collection, which gives you more insight ( though slightly less entrertainment value than some other video forms).
MY WARDROBE HQ X BELSTAFF PANEL
The first panel discussion of the season, on sustainability in menswear. Chaired by Jane Shepherdson CBE, with Dylan Jones OBE, James Norton, Misan Harriman, and Wilson Oryema. The discussion is a bit scattered, taking in the history of sustainability, Black lives matter and Black creativity, and other topics based on the panellists’ interests.
PAUL COSTELLOE
Some things never change, and Paul Costelloe’s choice of location and style is reassuringly stable. See later in the issue for the full catwalk imagery from the bright and fun collection featured in this video, combining traditional runway with behind the scenes elements.
BORA AKSU AW21 CATWALK SHOW
Musical performance accompanies this museum-based catwalk, giving us a great look at the clothes from velvet boot to slicked-down and braided hair. A beautifully romantic collection in shades of soft pink and green through to bolder shades and patterns. This editor would wear almost every piece. Half-skirts over jackets is a new look we’re embracing.
TOKYO FASHION AWARD – FUMIE TANAKA
We climb a red-carpeted staircase past models in various layered shades of beige, with blunt-fringed wigs covering their faces. Sounds a bit like a Yeezy presentation, but it’s not – so we’re told. One for fans of dance. Otherwise you can skip on after the staircase.
TOKYO FASHION AWARD – IHNN
A beautiful tangerine colour still can’t quite pick out these dresses from the rolling sea behind them, though the reflection of the orange setting sun is a nice touch.
TOKYO FASHION AWARD – MEANSWHILE
Mostly we’re looking at a bank of television screens for the whole video, which is a bit strange and has definitely been done before many, many times. You don’t need to watch this.
TOKYO FASHION AWARD – REQUAL
Actual fashion – rejoice! A kaleidoscope of looks makes it fairly difficult to concentrate on the actual clothes at first, but it turns out they get repeated afterwards. Then there’s a model sat on a chair getting dressed and a rapid progression through more looks, the theme of which seems to be “lots of items tied together”.
TOKYO FASHION AWARD – SHOOP
Now we head into the world of animation. This presentation starts feeling more like a film, and it’s good while before we can do really get a look at the clothes. The central character seems to go on an out-of-body experience into the matrix, which is at least a bit more interesting than some of the other films shown over the course of the week.
TOKYO FASHION AWARD – YUKI HASHIMOTO
A model steps out of a blue door wearing a brilliantly purple coat and carries an item across to decorate the other side of the room. The next model brings something else. If this had just been lit properly to showcase the clothes, it would have been the most genius thing we saw all week.
FLORIZEL – EDWARD CRUTCHLEY WINTER 2021
More discussion here from the designer about the collection’s inspiration, layered over images of the clothes being made and then worn by models. Johnston of Elgin fans will be interested to learn about their collaboration, and sustainability fans will want to hear about how their ensure their certifications. They also namecheck their supplies, which is pretty cool.
OLUBIYI THOMAS AW21 FUTURE HIGHLANDER
Here we go – a fashion film that has a story and actually showcases the clothes well in perfect lighting! Hallelujah! It can be done! The woodland setting is also perfectly appropriate for the raggedy, cosy style of the layered clothes. Think Snowpiecer: practical hand-me-downs but make it fashion.
EFTYCHIA – AW21 LIFE BEFORE BIRTH
This is a 61-second film. Clothes do not appear in it as anything more than a snippet. One for the art students with Tate Modern aspirations.
MARK FAST – WINTER OCEAN DIVE
A catwalk that feels very much an evolutionary follow-on to last season’s neon strips- they’re still present in the window behind the runway. Logo placement and 80s styling also persist. The brightest clothes are, perhaps predictably, the most exciting.
MATT BOVAN AW2021 ‘ODYSSEY’ FILM + NEW IMAGERY
Leave it to Matty Bovan to provide some colour and sparkle. The glitchy, flashing video reveals oversized sequins, clashing patterns and colours, ripped seams, and smeared face paint – all the typical Bovan stuff.
VINTI ANDREWS AUTUMN WINTER 2021
This is a haunting film that does also show of the clothes pretty well. Oversized silhouettes take flannels and sweatshirts and pair them with much more sophisticated garments and shapes to create a collection of punkish contrasts.
TIGER OF SWEDEN FALL WINTER 2021 LIFE
This collection, inspired by Swedish commutes, might not be expected to land with a London audience. Nonetheless, the clothes are stylish and chic, ideal for that long-awaited (or dreaded) return to the office. Stick around after the film for the inspiration from the designer.
SAUL NASH AW21 : TWIST
The urban setting and the idea of a fight seem to lend themselves to the clothes: loose, oversized streetwear. But this isn’t what you’ll expect. Stick around for the twist, as everything blooms into fanstastic colour.
ROKER AW21
We go behind the scenes in the making of a shoe collection here, with quite an interesting insight into the work that goes into making footwear. You won’t be able to look away.
LYPH: A STATE OF ALTERED EGO
Not quite sure what’s going on in this one, but we think it’s a message about respceting the planet. Anyway, the studio part of the video gives us a chance to take a very close look at some of the clothes, which is excellent.
BMUET(TE) 2021 AUTUMN WINTER DIGITAL PRESENTATION
A carousel is the setting for this dreamy presentation, as well as tea party where stately young ladies read illustrated classic novels. Another appearance of tartan mixed in with romantic gowns here – do we spy a trend forming?
NICHOLAS DALEY SPRING SUMMER 2021 STEPPING RAZOR
Something different – a karate champion wears the collection of relaxed, seventies – inspired looks while showing us his movies. A bit of a novelty, at any rate.
TOD’S & CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA FASHION PRESENT LEGACY
It’s a bit difficult to asses a whole collection of 35 different designers and contributors as one piece, but we don’t need to – it turns out this is just a trailer. You’ve got to click on the link within the video and head to the website for more.
TEMPERLEY LONDON AW21 DIGITAL FILM
This is a slick photoshoot-set video which pays clear homage to musical icons. The clothes are luscious and luxurious, like gems fit for a rock star.
CHURCH’S PRESENT “THE AUDITION”
The Audition gives us the story of a group of aspiring actors, all, of course, dressed in the collection. This gives us storyline but also plenty of close-ups on the shoes, which definitely works as a format.
LABRUM LONDON PRESENT AW21 “ST GILES BLACKBIRD”
We get a little historical context first, then a musical performance which segues into a catwalk. It’s quite like being there in person at a fashion show of old, just much higher quality. An enjoyable respite in the middle of the chaos. We love how the band grows bit by bit as the ‘models’ turn out to be musicians.
SATURDAY
N PALMER IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY
A seasonless collection for this debut! The kaleidoscope effect (again) makes it challenging to really take in the clothes and how they actually look. It’s a shame.
THE BACKWARD VENDOR IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY
It’s hard not to feel jaded already even by day two.Look, another arty film that doesn’t show the clothes sufficiently! While the quality is good, that’s no use if the full outfit is cropped out of the frame. It eventually all comes around, but it feels like it takes a long time to get there.
DISCOVERYLAB HAIR BY TONY&GUY
If you watched the other hair presentation, then you know exactly what to except. This time, the designers behind N. Palmer and the Backward Vendour.
RAY CHU CHAPTER II – CENTIPEDE LOVE
A fashion film that starts with a murder is definitely a little different! The styling is lush in this one and the clothes get their hero moments as well. If you’re not a fan of creepy crawlies, maybe look away after the two-minute mark. That’s when it gets both creepy and surreal!
PALMER/HARDING 2021 “I LOVE YOU” COLLECTION LAUNCH
This collection is literally romantic, themed around the idea of falling in love. The clothes are given centre stage here, with lots of trailing straps and exaggerated proportions. The standout has to be black leather folded jacket.
MAXXIJ AW21 COLLECTION
Out of glowing yellow dust comes a gang of male models dressed in beige and black streetwear, all puffed up and lenghtened and shortened and sewn together. Expect utilitarian done to the point that it’s no longer utilisable.
THE HOURGLASS – IA LONDON – WOMEN’S FALL 2021
A one-woman show about mental health and the effect of Covid-19, so it says; we’d call it a one-woman catwalk,then an art piece. If you already know and like IA London, you’ll know exactly what to expect here.
GAYEON LEE AUTUMN/WINTER 2021
Gayeon Lee’s collection is presented in a gallery later in this issue. The video is a simple presentation set to music as the models pose and dance with translucent or solid shapes and bags. A dreamy minute and a half.
SONIA CARRASCO: FALL WINTER 2021/22 #SCAVETHEHEARTS
This presentation is all about the struggle faced by those working in the arts at this time. It features a dancer in front of sculptures in various locations, wearing the collection. It feels frantic and anxious throughout.
EIRINN HAYHOW MAGIC MUSHROOMS A/W 21
Natural dyes and sustainable materials lend themselves well to Hayhow’s vision of basing each garment on a type of mushrooms. Very much a big sister to the previous season’s collection.
YUHAN WANG
A cast of diverse models (both in race and age) present floral patterns, knitwear, lace, and frills in this very short film ( only 52 seconds long).
STEPHEN JONES MILLINERY, AUTUMN WINTER 2021 COLLECTION, ‘FRENCH KISS’
Stephen Jones himself present the video from his headquarters, taking you inside the studio. Self-confessed kitsch results from an exploration of French hats; the video provides moodboards, sketches, and the hats themselves from the collection.
HILL AND FRIENDS HAPPY BAG AND THE GANG GO TO FASHION WEEK
Hill and Friends have established themselves as strong storytellers for Fashion Week, and this season’s animation is no different. The bags are shown walking up and down a catwalk in high heels, which is quite strange but nonetheless entertraining. We do sort of wish we’d seen the real bags, though.
16ARLINGTON AW21 COLLECTION
This video triggered my motion sickness. (That’s a true story). It’s very short, though, and we only get the briefest of looks at the clothes.
LUPE GAJARDO PRET A PORTER 2021.1
A genderless zero-waste collection introduced in a strange way: the designer apologising for the video’s failure. This seems like a scripted tactic. It’s quite amusing.
QASIMI AUTUMN WINTER 2021
At first I thought someone was walking by in the hallway, but it was just the audio. I’d watched quite few videos in a row by this point, I think it’s fair to point out. There’s a lot of dancing, most of which doesn’t really show us the clothes very well. Eventually, more of a catwalk element which allows us to really take the collection in. At about 9:55 we see all the looks gathered together.
AHLUWALIA AW21 “TRACES”
In Ahluwalia’s own description, the film celebrates the past while the collection looks to the future. It’s short but gives a good look at the collection, which features interesting cut-up and graphic styling.
LIAM HODGES CAPSULE 001 : THIN ICE
This is, on the surface, a collection of models spinning around in a circle to show you the whole look. But by the simple act ot cutting up, mixing, speeding or slowing down some parts of the frame, this becomes so much more interesting. Worth a look at how a designer can create something cool and different without having a huge budget.
MOLLY GODDARD AW21 SHOW
The models walk a simple catwalk through a small space in huge layers of – you guessed it – brightly coloured tulle. Tartan makes another appearance (you’re probably reaching for your online shopping outlet of choice by now). Male models also appear in skirts(kilts?) and it’s all very civilised and 80’s. The later part of the collection contains some surprises into more structured and tailored garments.
ART SCHOOL AW21 ASCENSION
A clear sense of identity has never been lacking from Art School. Same models, same ripped-up black clothing, same drama and stompy boots. If anything, it’s less entertaining than last season simply because the setting isn’t as intriguing.
SUNDAY
MASHA POPOVA IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY
The low-quality, retro-style video includes a lot of snippets of insects, angry-looking models, and close-ups of things that very much aren’t clothes. It does also allow a good look at the clothes themselves from time to time, which turn out to be patchwork ragged-edge creations inspired by the insects we see. It’s impossible to read the credits.
CARLOTA BARRERA IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY
The film promises the female gaze through a queer lens, which is an inviting proposal. It’s a fairly straightforward presentation of the clothes, however, with an admittedly soft touch. The clothes are deceptively simple, loosely structured with a kind of lazy elegance.
DISCOVERYLAB HAIR BY TONY&GUY
Now, Carlota Barrera explains the collection you just saw. Also, some details about the hair.
M’A X NENNY
Marques’ Almeida collaborated with a young rapper on this film. We actually quite like the format, with multiple videos playing on a screen over a backdrop of the website. Then there’s some rapping, and we see a collection of urban-inspired tones and shapes couple with the more courure aesthetic of the brand.
BIANCA SAUNDERS AW21 “SUPERIMPOSED”
From that, to this. A surrealist arthouse film with some interesting clothes,too. It’s all in black and white, though, which is appropriate to the genre but not the fashion.
PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI FW2021 CAMPAIGN FILM, ‘UNHINGED’.
The vibes are very much retro in this one, and there’s a light slight sense of watching one of those news footage/contributions from the family true crime documentaries on Netflix. But, it doesn’t really go anywhere.
JAMIE WEI HAUNG 2021 AUTUMN WINTER COLLECTION < DETOUR >
Images of lush and dramatic landscapes are interspersed with dramatic shots of a dancer, actor, musicians, and models in the clothes. As far as these films to, this one’s actually quiet enjoyable, and the bright tones of the clothes are pleasing too. Like gems scattered across the rocky shore. I didn’t even get angry about the bucket hats (long-term readers may recall that i despise them).
MONDAY
MILES GEORGE DANIEL STUDIO IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY
This is a bit of a weird one: models walking backwards(as in, they were walking normally and the film has been played backwards) through an industrial-looking office space, often out of focus. The garments are ripped and put back together, sometimes pinned or structured with rope or just draped. Is anyone else getting bored of the DIY vibe now?
DANIEL CRABTREE IN COLLABORATION WITH TONI&GUY
This is a very anxious, rapid film. The stop-motion effect makes it seem to tremble, a feeling that remains even when it slows down for brief pauses. The model and the collection give us ‘Edwardian schoolboy living in an attic’ vibes.
DISCOVERYLAB HAIR BY TONI&GUY
You know the drill by now, yes?
EMBRYO BY PRONOUNCE | FW21
Pottery patterns are painted on the models’ skins – and on their clothes. The overall vibe is a blend of the traditional with the punk. Lots of bare skin in this one.
MITHRIDATE AUTOMATISE DIGITAL ARTWORK
We start off in a lovely darkroom, then a gorgeous stately home. There’s a sense almost of decay, of glitch, of retro technologies combined with this very modern style of presentation. There are even Fight Club-esque subliminal frames. The gem-encrusted and changeable collection also intrigues, with a lot of very nice, clean designs and historic references.
OSMAN YOUSEFZADA “I’M COMING’
A dreamy video that embraces the weird, in the theme of joining together different parts ot the former colonies to embrace sustainability. Later there’s spoken word over dance. It goes on just slightly too long.
EMILIA WICKSTEAD AW21
This black collection is presented against shocking magenta walls, and we want to go live in that building now. Simple but effective drama. Later looks incorporate red, pale grey, purple, blue, gold and nude, with a lot of midriff-or-thigh-baring cuts.
JORDANLUCA AUTUMN WINTER 2021
We’re in a storage locker. Textural urban knitwear and utilitarian jumpsuits bring us a cast of nurses, security guards, and androgynous models who give the impression that you oughtnt’t mess with them. There’s something ominous about the gloves.
KAUSHIK VELENDRA X THE POWER OF FASHION AND ITS INFLUENCE ACROSS OUR SELF-EMPOWERMENT
Here we get to chat not only to the designer, but also to the models (artists) he’s chosen. Interviews about inclusivity, masculinity, and positivity allo us to think while we admire the clothes.
HILLIER BARTLEY PRESENTS THE NEXT STAGE IN THEIR ICONIC PAPERCLIP EVOLUTION
This clip is 19 seconds long. It took me longer to write the sentence than to watch it.
XANDER ZHOU AW21 COLLECTION ‘UPDATE’
Digitally enhanced and real models wear this collection, with text about the looks incorporated into the video as well as diagrams. The menswear is somewhat forgettable (oversized outwear, broad-shouldered suits) but the presentation style catches the eye.
BURBERRY AUTUMN/WINTER 2021 MENSWEAR PRESENTATION
Okay, now this is a video that allow us to see the clothes fully, gives us a sense of going behind the scenes,AND smashes it out of the park in terms of blurring the gender lines. Office wear, coats, varsity jackets – and skirts. Leave it to Burberry to show us how the professionals do it. Silk scarves as trench belts? Excuse us, we’re off to raid our wardrobes.
ROKSANDA AUTUMN WINTER 2021
Age is no barrier in this film, featuring three generations of the same family (the Redgraves/Richardsons). Shakespeare’s Sonnet 73 provides the soundtrack.
FASHION VALUES LAUNCH
This 39-minute presentation launches a new initiative in sustainable fashion. There’s a lot of dry talking, a short film, and then a panel discussion: personally, I suggest you just read the blurb posted under the video.
PER GÖTESSON – AW21 – PIECE BY PIECE
A mode walks slowly through the woods an d finds pieces of clothing and jewellery to put on. Rather than a cumulative experience, it’s one or two items per outfit, after which we switch to a new almost- complete look for more of the same. We’re in a forest, but there are shells everywhere.
E D E L I N E L E E AUTUMUN WINTER 2021
Under the video presentation, there are gifs and images of the collection. Which is handy, because the video is a short story rather than a fashion film. It’s worth to watch!
NATASHA ZINKO X DUOLTD : SOBER CHAPTER 3 – THE FINAL CHAPTER
Dramatic organ music accompanies models striding through a church in this dark video. It’s an irreverent collection that takes in unlucky symbols, graffiti, anarchism, mini sheep, and a floral lace bridal gown. Expect also some Bridgerton-esque corsets and wigs, plus gender busting styling.
TUESDAY
DANSHAN COLLECTION SENTIENCE
This 360 rolling view of a set brings many surprises with it. Models under running water, with their head in clouds, and a lush satin fabric adorned with embroidery. It’s quite a fun way to constantly making you look at what’s going on without sacrificing visibility of the clothes.
