By Madeleine Oakley during LFW Sept 2019. For show galleries, check out our online issues!
FJU Talents at Fashion Scout
The knitwear designer showcased oversized slouchy knits in an array of candy colours. There were stripes and Aztec designs covering the garments. Plenty of texture and fabric manipulation added to the collection’s playful, beachy vibe.
Also a knitwear designer, Sheng Chuang played with layers and contrasting different qualities of wool. Her blobby knits had ripples, holes and laddering to them, making them look as if they had been deconstructed and then remade.
Lei used denim in blue black and purple to create shirts and military-style coats. The fabric had been tie-dyed and acid washed to give it a grungy look. Chinese symbols, fringing and flags also contributed to a strong but smart vibe. Loud guitar and drum music accompanied the models.
The first garments in the collection were made from a dreamy assortment of white fabrics, with shimmering beading, tied ribbons and lace embellishments. Gold belts were used to cinch in the models’ waists. A flowing yellow dress with matching jacket added a pop of colour to the collection. Peach accents were used and added to the feminine, dainty look. The designer has been noted for his use of sustainable fabrics.
A-Jane at Fashion Scout
Rumbling sounds announced the entrance of the models. Their clothes were boxy in silhouette, and showcased the designer’s ability to create flawless tailoring. Blocky patterns of lines and squares accentuated the asymmetric cut of some of the garments. The bold colour palette (of black, white, orange, blue, beige and lime green) was effective in emphasising the big folds and gathers used on the cotton fabrics. The models looked modern with their minimal make up and slicked back pony-tails; allowing the oversized garments to dominate. Sizeable earrings made from scrunched sheets of plastic accessorised some of the looks.
YSIA C at Fashion Scout
14 Design talents from Yingsheng Education showcased their work. Some of the most notable designs were a take on the peasant look, including long skirts, felt hats and a colour palette of greys and khakis. Additions of denim and a fluffy textured fabric meant that the overriding look was modern but with a wholesome, rural quality.
Another successful collection was a group of space-age looking garments made from metallic plastics and knits. Padded black pieces were attached with pins to boxy silver tops and trousers. Additional straps and pockets gave a utility-style look. The basic black knitwear contrasted effectively with the reflective, silver squares.
Seven Continents at Fashion Scout
The show started with triumphant music and a graphic of the earth, with lines linking different countries together, to show how they all play a part in fashion.
The Turkish fashion company showcased their elaborately embellished dresses to chiming music and African drums. The collection featured couture gowns of black and navy tulle with gold embellishments. Damask patterns adorned dresses of ruffled satin, in blush pink. The garments were voluminous: with puffed sleeves, capes and peplums.
By Thaher is renowned for dressing the royals of the Middle East. The latest collection presented dresses covered in sequins, which sparkled profusely due to a waterfall graphic at the start of the catwalk. The luxurious dresses featured beaded tassels, diamantes and lace. A stand out dress was a sensual black body-con style number, adorned all over with a rainbow of crystals. Another notable garment was one completely covered in silver gems, and completed with a feathered bolero. There were skirts of multiple tulle ruffles and tops with oversized frilled sleeves in pastel colours. The collection celebrated the woman’s body, and was very feminine and lavish.
The label takes inspiration from theatre and the Baroque era. The collection had a playful and youthful vibe, with embellished shorts, a short pleated skirt and lots of bright colours. Religious music gave way to birds tweeting, and then children singing ‘Somewhere Only We Know’. This coincided with symmetrical swirly embroidered dresses and beaded co-ords being paraded down the catwalk.
An aptitude for free-hand machine embroidery and craft was evident in the international Fashion Designer’s work. A graphic of her during the design process and violin music introduced the models. The clothes were of an earthy colour palette and made from suede and denim. The models’ hair was tied with fabric offcuts. Puff sleeves made from transparent plastic and sparkly embellishments added a modern touch. Most exciting was the interesting use of macramé knotting: to attach sections of clothing, encase plastic beads and to make intricate bags. Free hand machine embroidery was used to stitch text, with words such as ‘Power’ and to sew illustrative faces. The audience each received a small embroidered face to take home: a reminder of the final outfit with its patchwork cloak of faces.
Le Sillage at Fashion Scout
The brand name Le Sillage means “follow, start with” in French, and echoes designers’ Chen Qiyang and Sun Shiyu’s desire to create something different, and separate from a world of mass-production. Their catwalk collection was set to a female voice singing ominous music and was very atmospheric. The gender-fluid designs were a new take on tailoring, with cut outs, cropped sections and some asymmetry. Flowing long coats and full skirts were modified using gathers and ties. To embellish the all-black collection, some garments were emblazoned with graffiti-style paintings, while others were adorned with Chinese symbols.
Atelier Zuhra at W Hotel
Atelier Zuhra showcased their latest denim collection at the exclusive W Hotel, near Leicester Square. It took a while to queue and receive a wristband, in order to use the lift to access the bar area. A DJ was playing cool beats and the venue was buzzing, with people perched on plush seats and ordering fancy drinks from an impressive circular bar. The models showcasing the garments were posing on a semi-circular stage. Flared jeans with raw hems complemented jackets with ornate mirror beading. Belted dresses with large collars were ornamented with a waterfall of gems. The stand out look was a white jacket and jeans set, with gold sequins and jewels cascading down the front.