Photography: Marcus Hartelt @marcushartelt http://www.marcushartelt.com
Designer/Words: Anciela @anciela_london anciela.com
For SS27, ANCIELA looks at the relationship between mother and daughter, a special relationship shaped by care, protection and the passing down of knowledge, but also one that can carry complexity, tension and trauma. The collection uses this relationship as a metaphor for our connection with Mother Earth, and asks how fashion can play a role in addressing environmental challenges.
The collection follows a thread of past, present and future, considering what we can learn from the past, how we respond to the challenges of the present and what we need to create a more resilient future.
These ideas are reflected in the brand’s adaptive approach to tailoring. Adjustable panels and detachable sleeves allow pieces to be changed, while layers interconnect, tie and knot around the body, adapting to movement and shape.
The collection combines vintage silk donated by artist Allegra Hicks, rescued wool suiting from Orsola de Castro and deadstock cottons with certified Tencel and recycled cotton. It also introduces next-generation materials through collaborations with material innovators. AlgaFila, a fibre made from seaweed extract, air and nanotechnology, is used across knitwear and padded garments. The material is lightweight and thermally insulating, while offering an alternative to standard padding and yarns.
Garments and accessories are made using Savigne by Planet of the Grapes, an animal-free, plant-based leather alternative created from pressed grape skins, stalks and seeds left over from winemaking. The material is sourced directly from organic and biodynamic vineyards in Provence, South of France. The collection’s abstract fern motifs, inspired by the layered darkness of the jungle and deep forest, are created using a black bio-based pigment developed by Octarine, a synthetic biology platform focused on developing low-impact solutions inspired by nature. The material collaborations are an important part of ANCIELA’s approach, creating an opportunity to explore how fashion can support innovation, education and the exchange of knowledge.
Alongside ANCIELA’s material innovations, the SS27 presentation features an immersive exhibition exploring the relationship between materials, sound and the natural world. At its centre is the interactive Upcycled Sound Cocoon, crafted from reclaimed foam, wadding and fabric offcuts collected over five years from ANCIELA’s studio and first presented at the Design Museum in 2025. The installation is accompanied by a new sonic composition by artist Yasmin Rai. Together, the works invite guests to engage with the collection’s material processes and reflect on the interconnectedness of ecological systems, from the hidden life of soil to the changing landscapes of the Amazon.
