Most of us have had that moment while shopping: you spot something you love, try it on, and instantly know the colour isn’t doing you any favours. The fit might be perfect, but somehow it still feels wrong. According to Chums fashion buyer Philippa Brooks, that reaction isn’t accidental. “It’s not just about colours working well together,” she explains. “It’s about choosing shades that complement your skin tone and hair colour.”

This is exactly what colour analysis is designed to help with. At its simplest, colour analysis looks at your natural features – your skin, hair and eyes – and works out which colours tend to flatter you most. There are several ways of doing this, but one of the most common is seasonal colour analysis. This system is based on Munsell colour theory, which breaks colour down into three qualities: whether it’s warm or cool, light or dark, and muted or bright.

When these qualities are combined, they form 12 seasonal colour groups. Each season comes with its own palette, designed to work in harmony with your natural colouring and make your features look clearer and more balanced.

So where did this idea come from – and why does it still influence how we dress today?

How colour analysis came to be

Humans have been thinking about colour for thousands of years. In Ancient Greece, Aristotle believed colour was created through different blends of light and darkness. Much later, in 1810, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe explored the emotional impact of colour in Theory of Colours, suggesting that colour is experienced psychologically as well as visually.

Colour analysis didn’t enter the world of fashion and personal style until the mid-20th century. One of the first people to explore it in this context was Suzanne Caygill, a Hollywood stylist and designer. In the 1940s, she began noticing that people’s natural colouring – their hair, skin and eyes – often aligned with particular colour families. Her book Color: The Essence of You, published in 1980, grouped people into seasonal categories with expressive names such as “golden spring” and “tawny autumn”.

The idea became far more accessible thanks to Carole Jackson, who trained under Geraldine Pinkney, one of Caygill’s students. Jackson’s book Colour Me Beautiful, released in the 1980s, stripped the theory back into something practical. It showed readers how to identify their season and choose colours accordingly, and it went on to sell more than 13 million copies worldwide.

After its success, Colour Me Beautiful grew into an international styling brand, offering consultations, training and seasonal advice.

In 1995, the system was expanded further by Mary Spillane and Christine Sherlock in Colour Me Beautiful’s Looking Your Best. This introduced the 12-season model, dividing each season into three more specific types based on two dominant colour traits:

• bright spring (bright and warm)
• true spring (warm and bright)
• light spring (light and warm)
• light summer (light and cool)
• true summer (cool and muted)
• soft summer (muted and cool)
• soft autumn (muted and warm)
• true autumn (warm and muted)
• deep autumn (dark and warm)
• deep winter (dark and cool)
• true winter (cool and bright)
• bright winter (bright and cool)

Over time, colour analysis has continued to adapt. Some consultants now use even more detailed systems, including neutral categories for people who don’t clearly fall into warm or cool tones. As Philippa Brooks puts it, “When people understand their dominant colour traits, it takes a lot of the guesswork out of shopping.”

Finding the colours that work for you

Working out your colour palette can feel tricky. With endless shades available – and trends, personal taste and everyday practicality all influencing what we buy – it’s easy to feel unsure about where to start.

Although colour analysis applies to everyone, men sometimes feel it’s less relevant, as men’s clothing often relies on neutral tones. However, Philippa Brooks points out that “neutrals work best when they’re used as a base. Adding the right accent colour can lift an outfit instantly, which is why understanding your seasonal or tonal colours is useful for men too.”

To help simplify things, Chums has created a free downloadable e-book that breaks colour theory down in a clear, practical way. It’s designed to help you identify your own palette so you can shop with more confidence and stop second-guessing your choices.

Ways to explore colour analysis

If you’re curious to try colour analysis, there are several options to choose from:

• In-person consultations

Often considered the most accurate option, these sessions involve a trained consultant holding different coloured fabrics near your face to see how your skin responds. They’re highly personalised, but usually the most expensive.

• Online consultations

These typically involve uploading photos or joining a video call. They’re more accessible and budget-friendly, though lighting and image quality can affect the outcome.

• DIY kits

Colour analysis kits allow you to explore at home using swatches and guides. They’re a good introduction, but it can be difficult to judge undertones accurately on your own.

• Online quizzes

Free quizzes offer a quick way to get a general idea of your colour season by answering questions about your features and preferences. They’re best used as a starting point rather than a final answer.

• Social media filters and apps

Platforms like TikTok and Instagram have made colour analysis more visual and interactive. While fun to try, results can vary depending on lighting and filters.

AI-based tools

Some people now use digital tools to suggest colour palettes based on photos or descriptions. These can provide quick insights, but accuracy depends on the quality of the information given.

How colour influences mood and perception

Colour doesn’t just change how you look – it can also affect how you feel and how others respond to you. This is the focus of colour psychology, which explores how different colours influence emotions and behaviour.

Red, for example, is bold and energising, often linked with passion and excitement. That’s why it features so heavily around Valentine’s Day. At the same time, it can signal urgency or danger, making it less suitable in settings like hospitals.

Green is associated with nature, balance and calm, which explains its popularity with health and environmentally focused brands. Blue tends to feel soothing and trustworthy, although it’s rarely used in food settings because it can reduce appetite.

Yellow is bright and attention-grabbing, which is why it’s often used for warnings or signage. While it can feel cheerful and uplifting, too much yellow can be overwhelming in spaces designed for rest.

Understanding the emotional impact of colour makes it easier to dress with intention. Want to feel confident? A bold red can help. Looking for a mood boost on a grey day? A touch of yellow might lift your spirits. As Philippa Brooks explains, “Colours communicate emotion without words. When you understand that, you can influence how others respond to you.”

In the end, the colours you wear do more than complete an outfit. They work with your natural features, influence how you feel, and shape how others see you. Learning how colour works can help you choose shades that genuinely bring out your best.