LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W22 DIGITAL RECAP

LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W22 DIGITAL RECAP

FRIDAY FEB 18

DiscoveryLAB presents: CHRISTOPH RITTER STUDIO

“An exploration of futurism, intercultural allyship and virtual self-idealisation”, Christoph Ritter’s digital presentation showcased his AW22 collection ‘THE LADDER’. Flashing lights and techno music aplenty, it was presented in an edgy short film set in an underground nightclub that cleverly displayed the collection on the dancers.

DiscoveryLAB presents: Margn

Margn’s SS/AW 22 draws focus on the experiences of immigrants and refugees, showcasing their struggles, courage, and determination. Set in a bare, relatively dark room, the video and music paired cleverly together, creating a sense of discomfort and desire for escape. Each design and stitching symbolises an attempt at going against the norm.

DiscoveryLAB presents: ABIGAIL AJOB

The collection showcases the love story of the designer’s parents from Nigeria and Lagos, who met on a flight from Lagos to London. You journey through their love story of discovery, love, and parting as each piece is revealed, and each scene or phase of the relationship has a unique song to really pull you in.

SOHUMAN LIBERATION SHOW

As a young woman walks around the city wearing chic and feminine collections with laces and see-through fabrics, it exudes a sense of freedom, independence, and confidence that we love to see!

MITHRIDATE Autumn/Winter 2022

The campaign film showed the physical presentation interwoven with clips of ominous recordings of the pieces. A burst of silver and glittered fabrics, the models donning the designs looked like quirky creatures from another planet. The setting was a stunning mix of industrial design and plants, and the atmosphere is mysterious and captivating.

SAUL NASH Ritual AW22 directed by FX Goby

A young man enters a barber shop dancing in a bright red outfit. The collection has a street-style identity but is barely understandable that this is a fashion video, it definitely looks like a music video.

U.Mi-1 Fashion Film: “Unto Dust”

“Unto Dust” is a short film showcasing a seasonless and unisex collection. The set design and video editing are great as they perfectly matched the tone of the collection. The designer aimed at exploring wider themes, like global interconnectedness and the tension between individuals and community.

EDWARD CRUTCHLEY: Season 17

Edward Crutchley’s collection is inspired by 80’s goth-luxe, this is a very extravagant, alternative collection that may not be for everyone. One particular outfit we liked was the womenswear total lilac suit.

Playlist’ AW22 Stephen Jones Millinery

This collection of hats and headpieces is presented almost like a music video. Earbuds are the models for this fun and engaging fashion video, which is a great way to present hats not using human models.

VINTI ANDREWS AW22 LFW Fashion Film

Colourful prints paired with a casual and relaxed style with a girl walking around a desolate area summarises the film. With the vibes of a final project of a high-school video making course, it is definitely more of a DIY feel for LFW.

palmer//harding pre-fall & fall film

The brand focused on structured shapes and basic colours like black, beige, and cream. There are no prints or eye-catching elements, apart from the clear transparent shoes, but we loved every outfit!

SATURDAY FEB 19

DiscoveryLAB presents: Anciela

“The Dance of the Migrant” film by Anciela presented their AW22 womenswear collection. With interpretive dancing and spoken word, the film cleverly showcased their inspirations taken from the history of the “Silletero”, who were porters who carried flowers, people, and more during colonial times and for the Colombian flower festival.

DiscoveryLAB presents: J E CAI

A model standing on a spinning plinth is piece by piece getting dressed virtually with different outfits. Definitely not a traditional catwalk, you can see the influence from the digital side of the fashion industry and NFTs. The aesthetics of maths or coding.

DiscoveryLAB presents: Florentina Leitner

‘Der Zaurberberg’ is a “playful concoction of femininity and elegance. This video has strong vintage vibes and draws inspiration from 80s horror films, resulting in a captivating, yet every viewing experience paired with the music.

BMUET(TE) Digital Runway

This video features models walking a traditional catwalk in an empty venue set up with chairs, yet the music somehow fills the space.

The collection features pieces with strong yet simple shapes, taking inspiration from punk styles and imaginary stories. Very versatile and designs many will like!

SEOKWOON YOON_Approaching a new species

The collection is a celebration of geometric colourful patterns. It is almost genderless and the video shows the fabrics really well as there are many close ups. The impactful, bassy music provides a certain presence to the pieces.

Ahluwalia–GQ

Ahluwalia presents “From Bollywood to Nollywood ”, their debut collection. Reminiscent of India and Nigeria, colourful drapes decorate

the totally white, appealing venue. The main elements of the set are sand and dried flowers, and the music is strong, creating a great vibe for this colourful collection. Interviews from the designers and creatives involved are included.

av vattev “Soul Control” vol.2

“The whole concept behind my brand is to create modern but timeless garments.” There were some interesting headpieces, to say the least, but the retro-digital style of the editing was nice.

RAY CHU – Ch. IIII Touch Me

Presenting “sensual and sophisticated aesthetics”, models wear pieces ranging from suit-like ensembles to more relaxed collared tops. A mix of bold silhouettes and subtle colour palettes, this collection also has some emphasis on big silver jewels and jewel-style belts

Banshee of Savile Row

A lovely combination of feminine and chic fashion and Irish countryside vibes, the film shows a model walking and dancing close to a pond. The elegant aesthetic of the pieces are definitely something we would wear for all outfits!

MARQUES ‘ALMEIDA

The collection is a burst of patterns and colours. Many pieces are great for spring/summer. With too many brands proposing unwearable outfits, Marques’ Almeida really nailed it with a bold and captivating, yet practical collection.

SUNDAY FEB 20

DiscoveryLAB presents: Sól Hansdóttir

Collaborating with the Icelandic photographer Anna Maggý, perception is toyed with to explore the reality of clothing while also going against the traditional idea of fashion. You get this vintage, retro-like editing style, with the blurry focus and almost DIY aesthetic.

DiscoveryLAB presents: Strongthe

Ritualistic and taking inspiration from Thailand’s early ghost culture, this very short fashion film features pieces that supposedly are detailed with all intricate designs representing the different ghost warding methods. However, it was very difficult to see them in full.

Temperley London AW22

This collection is refined yet casual. Brown shaded, countryside chic outfits create a young and joyful collection. Outfits are very nice and for sure easily wearable for different occasions. In comparison to the collection, the video could have been done better.

DiscoveryLAB presents: EX-A STUDIO

“Future Relics”, is a 3D Audio Visual jewellery presentation. The immersive experience showcases the gender-neutral jewellery collection paired with music by Limited Toss.

STAXX AW22

HALCYON is inspired “by a tender story of love and commitment.” With amazing jewels, every piece is interesting and well shown in the video. The included photos show how they pair the jewellery with matching outfits.

Elleme FW22

The models walk in a dome-style venue with quirky geometric walls. The effects and editing, music, and strong pieces paired so well together for an edgy and powerful film presentation.

On|Off presents Jack Irving NFTs, LFW, BNV, and Aliceland

Fashion meets video gaming. Some NFT outfits are presented in a video game-style digital experience, but it makes us question whether this is still even fashion…

Simone Rocha AW22

Layered outfits, black, white and beige lined the traditional catwalk. Many outfits are embellished with rhinestones, pearls, and embroideries. We love how Simone Rocha mixes shapes and small details like rhinestones.

MONDAY FEB 21

DiscoveryLAB presents: DREAMING ELI by Elisa

“… an ode to womanhood”, this collection is elegantly and sensually shown through clips of dancers in single rooms and an ethereal, flower-lined path. Each piece takes inspiration from restrictions placed on women throughout the centuries.

DiscoveryLAB presents: SASKIA

GO.LA (advance and retreat) is Saskia’s LFW debut film piece. Celebrating the beauty of cross-cultural lifestyles and ancestral displacements, the film shows models and dancers moving together and doing capoeira harmoniously. The occasional first person POV really draws you into the dance and exchange.

DiscoveryLAB presents: Ester Kubisz

The video takes place in a residence where angles and edits are played around to showcase the tailored suits. You get a sense of Kubisz’s life in London through the designs and colours of the pieces as they progress through the video— initial excitement to increased burdens.

Emilia Wickstead Autumn Winter 2022

In a chequered black and white room, the attention the seemingly loud backdrop actually enhances each piece. Ranging from neon green and bright reds to tartan plaids and browns, the simple yet eye-catching designs stood out to us.

Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood’s AW22/23 collection, as with all of her collections, never disappoint. The campaign film was set in eclectic settings of art studios and vintage stores. Taking inspiration from

Peter Bruegel’s painting and animal symbolism in Chinese culture, The play with colours and patternings were stunning!

APUJAN Autumn Winter 2022

The Ballad of a Story Keeper is the campaign film for APUJAN’s AW2022 collection. Featuring a lone heroine defeating an enemy, a mysterious scroll transports her to another dimension where she journeys finding keys that open a surprise towards the end. The storyline was difficult to follow, with no guiding text or introduction.

HELEN KIRKUM: History in Remaking

This short fashion film features their Made to Order pieces made from waste materials collected from TRAID’s recycling centre. We love the editing of the video where it displayed two different videos overlaid onto each other. The contrast provided depth. The music was jarring at times but somehow still worked with the film.

Accidental Cutting presents:

“Upside down – Our World our Time” aw 22/23

A nod to the instability caused by the COVID-19 pandemic, this presentation film takes you on a journey through a virtual, video game format. The lone avatar of the designer and founder, Eva Iszoro, mimics the designer throughout a show looking in.

Kaushik Velendra

A film of the catwalk presentation, the menswear takes from Indian brocade to Italian worsted wools, and more! The Indian craftsmanship definitely still shines through with the strong tailoring, patterns, and new colours. We love the slowed down runway where we get to fully appreciate each look.

RAF SIMONS FALL WINTER 2022-2023 COLLECTION

Taking inspiration from Pieter Bruegel’s ‘Netherlandish Proverbs’, the collection is showcased through a traditional catwalk presentation. Although the pieces were definitely statements, the setting, with the brick walls, red-cloaked armchairs, and golden chandelier, were too distracting to fully appreciate the pieces.

London College of Fashion: MA22

Works from the London College of Fashion’s postgraduate students are uniquely shown in this campaign film. With an all-white backdrop, you can fully see the innovation and creativity of these young designers in their pieces!

8ON8 Autumn Winter 2022—Sliders

In an almost James Bond-esque way, the well-made AW collection and presentation film “builds a parallel world in a hair loop, where observers will board the space-time train to go here,…”.

Paul & Joe Fall Winter 2022 Catwalk

This catwalk film showcased their traditional runway shows where the models walked in more intimate settings lined with audience members. We love the more gentle, homey designs, which pay tribute to the late English political activist Emmeline Pankhurst.

Helen Anthony

Artisan Liberation is Helen Anthony’s AW22 collection. Showcased in a digital event, the simple setting of a beige open room with high windows and ceilings is definitely very grand but somewhat takes the attention away from the pieces with how spacious and bare it was.

TUESDAY FEB 22

DiscoveryLAB presents: DJOKIC

You’re instantly drawn in by the music and the 360 camera POV. However, the edits and cuts of the film and style are at times too distracting to focus on the collection itself. Male archetypes are satirically investigated with the collection in an attempt to break down the stereotypical male identity.

DiscoveryLAB presents: WesternAffair

Reminiscing on the designer’s early childhood memories, the collection nods at 2000s footwear using fabrics she collected throughout the years. The video jumps from mood to mood, with a dream-like similarity to all the scenes.

DiscoveryLAB presents: VeniceW

The grunge-like, playful aesthetic of this collection is displayed through a presentation film with old-school youtube editing vibes, with the subtitles and transitions, in the first section. You’re then taken to an NFT experience towards the latter half. “Vehicleswear” is the name of the collection.

MARRKNULL AW 2022

A play on the traditional catwalk, models with colourful, playful hairstyles walk along the walls in a bare room. The editing shows the cameraman following the models with some clips zooming in and out on specific outfits. There was definitely a variety of designs showcased.

oqLiq Spacetime

The CGI film takes you to a futuristic world combining physical clothing and a virtual escape. Emphasising the evolution of society, a reliance on traditionalism is still apparent. The whole first minute and a half sets the scene, so you can definitely skip straight to the designs at 1:35 if you want.

Per Götesson

Titled ‘WORK SHOP’, the collection was showcased through an Instagram Live. We unfortunately missed it. His designs aimed at reconstructing masculine shapes.

JENN LEE 22FW <<LOVE BUTTON HUNTER>> VR GAME

“Unzip your love” -Jenn Lee Though we are yet to play the game, it definitely peaks our interest. The colours and animation alone are enough to draw us in!

TOGA

“HOOPS, BOUNCING, SWINGING” A great mix of innovative video editing and collection showcasing, we loved how each outfit got a moment of stillness before the model walked off to really see the designs.

Carlota Barrera

The snow-filled set with pockets of greenery and floral bush brought an atmosphere of escape and wonder. However, the collection itself unfortunately didn’t go well with the snowy setting. It could have possibly been done intentionally, but as a viewer who may not know much about the collection, it seemed mismatched.

Johan Ku

This fashion film has an eerie feel to it with the music and red and blue lighting. You can tell the pieces are fairly vivid and colourful, but as the lighting is fairly dim, it’s hard to fully appreciate that colour blocking

yuhan wang aw22

The traditional catwalk presentation was exactly that. If you attended the physical show, you can skip this, but if you wanted a break from all of the immersive or “innovative” digital presentations, this would be the one! Faux fur was used!

RIXO Presentation: The Golden Age

Inspired by Hollywood glamour, the 1920s, flapper-esque presentation was definitely luxurious and playful. The pieces blended with the film aesthetic seamlessly; you feel almost a part of the party!

Mainline:RUS/Fr.CA/DE 01-2022

Set by the beach and a coastal town, the colours of the collection paired perfectly with the environment. It was a serene and thought-provoking film that cleverly showcased the designs.

MAXXIJ AW22 “Abstract” collection

This catwalk film showcases MAXXIJ’s AW22 “Abstract” collection. A play on perspective keeps the film interesting, and the models sometimes bug in and out, making them seem almost virtual.

JUBILEE (Post Couture) NO SEASON ’22 / INGRID KRAFTCHENKO

“Protest!” -Derek Jarman. A nod to Derek Jarman’s cult film, the film features femme queer London rebels wearing designs aimed at destroying the concept of mass production. The film can be definitely very jarring to some viewers, with the music almost grinding at you in some bits, but that adds to the dramatics.

David Koma AW22 Digital Show

In a sports stadium-like setting, you hear chanting and upbeat music as soon as the video starts. Stadium lights and circle patches of green turf decorate the spacious set, and the models interweave themselves through. The collection pays respect to all classes of English society: “… the upper class, the working class, and the sporty.”

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